From Australian Womens Weekly Saturday 7 April 1934
by MURIEL SEGAL, Special Representative in Europe
"CHANEL'S collection, which was shown for the Press, was full of new ideas and surprises. Youthful styles held sway, black and white and navy and white predominating, with color given by patterned silks and stamped fabrics and plaid and checked taffetas.
No emphasis was placed on sleeve treatment or shoulder, and again there was a decided suggestion of bustle evoked by pleats or loops at the back of the skirt. Often, too, a basque effect was achieved by the short jacket of two-piece frocks. Evening
gowns relied much on the richness of their material for effect, wonderful floral designs or tissues embroidered in gold and colored stones. The necklines were simple, practically none of the strapped harness effects, and cut well away from the throat in graceful folds like the drapery of a sculptured bust. Day frocks, chez Chanel, show the popular trend of being cut distinctly high in the front and a trifle lower at the back, often slightly curved out at the nape of the neck. One of the features of the collection was the introduction of diamente embroidery which was used to trim the tailored evening dresses for summer wear made of a particularly heavyweight pique. Some of these very attractive frocks were sewn all over in diamente, while others had neck and waist trimmed with bands.
All showed great interest in the new designs for stamped silks which Madame Chanel designs for herself instead of buying her materials from the well known fabricants as the dress houses do. This most enterprising of young couturieres has her own factories and designs and makes up silks, hats, perfumes, bags and jewellery accessories.
Talking of jewellery, as all the world follows Chanel fashions, the mannequins in her show displayed a new idea in ear-clips consisting of large clusters of colored stones set in silver or gold. Two little Mercury wings were another fetching idea, and this especially charming in a Mercury ensemble suitable for race meetings or more spectacular wear. Gold buttons fasten a black satin suit clipped at the neck with a Mercury wing brooch, the tiny Mercury wing ear-clips and the cap, Mercury shaped, made of gold lacquered feathers.
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SUITS often had sleeves reaching above the wrist and showing a couple of inches of starched lawn to match white cravats.
Sleeves cleverly cut on the bias. Taffeta plaid ribbon having an angora thread running through makes original pussycat bows on morning frocks. Neatly severe seven-eighths length coats worn over striped, plaid, or stamped silk frocks.
Chanel's design for printed materials, giving the effect of interlaced ribbons, is one of the sensations of the season's fashions.
Also the designs, which look like Irish crochet lace on a dark background, are most effective and popular.
With their evening wraps, the mannequins wore various hair ornaments likely to be the most fashionable of the coming season.
Besides the Mercury wings and bandeaus there were gold coronets encircling the head all round, which bid fair to oust the overworked Alice bandeau from favor.
Madame Chanel says: "In this, as in all my collections, I have tried to give you something entirely new, without being eccentric. I have designed hats and frocks to suit types of to-day, and have not resorted to historical periods. I have created my fashions to suit one year—this year—and not for last year any more than for next year. They are fashions of to-day."